Saturday, February 25, 2012

Cashmere and Pearls

I have always enjoyed walking through cemeteries. An advantage of living in New England is that one doesn't have to go far to find land full of crooked gravestones, many from the 18th century. About a mile from my house, there's the picturesque Little Neck Cemetery, where a passenger from the Mayflower is buried. Nearby are the small stones for four young sisters who died within days of each other in 1833. Today, on a whim, I stopped for a few minutes at the Rumford Cemetery, an historical cemetery that's also in East Providence. I'd passed it many times before, but had never wandered in.

I love old cemeteries because I admire the artistry of gravestone art - the skulls and wings, the vines and angels; Old English phrases like "Here Lieth;" the long "s" that still always looks like "f". I love the Puritan names that sound decidedly un-Puritan, like "Experience" and "Freelove," both of which I saw on women's gravestones. I love the permanent typo and correction I noted on a centuries-old stone, where the dead person's name, incorrectly carved "Carpeter," had an "n" inserted in carved superscript with a perfect proofreader's caret.

Mostly, though, I love cemeteries because I imagine the lives that were lived and the stories the dead could tell. I get choked up at the tiny stones of the four sisters, thinking about their parents, who were buried nearby some thirty years later, curious about and yet not wanting to fully imagine the virus or fire that decimated that family or how that marriage survived in the wake of such grief. I wonder what kind of women "Experience" and "Freelove" were and whether the stonecarver who forgot the "n" in Carpenter was upbraided for his mistake - was he an apprentice? 

Hundreds of lives and narratives, some of which were probably quite ordinary and some, surely, that bucked hard against convention: not least the Mayflower pilgrim, whose religion may not have looked like any form of Christianity today, but who fled persecution nonetheless, or the more recent immigrants from Portugal and the Azores who also traveled across the ocean to establish lives here. 

Perhaps it wasn't accidental that it was today that I decided to visit the Rumford cemetery and once again contemplate the richness of different lives. This week, at Smith College, my alma mater, the campus newspaper published an odious letter written by an alumna from the Class of '84 that lamented the current state - more specifically, the student composition - of the College. At every turn, the author finds fault with Smith students. Her college has gotten too full of first-generation college students. It's too poor, too gay, too full of people who aren't white, too foreign. Moreover, there simply aren't enough women in cashmere coats and pearls. 

For those of you unfamiliar with Smith, it is a women's college, historically one of the "Seven Sisters" schools in the US. It has long been considered one of the top liberal arts colleges in the country and is known for academic rigor and for producing high-achieving, accomplished women. Its roster of alumnae includes such luminaries as Julia Child, Betty Friedan, Gloria Steinem, and Sylvia Plath, to name just a few. However, in earlier decades, it was populated more by rich white women from expensive prep schools and wealthy suburbs (hence the very white short list above). 

My time at Smith wasn't easy. I grew up in one of the very counties that the letter writer mentions, and I was, I am embarrassed to say now, just as ignorant as she in many ways. I hadn't spent much time around people different from myself, and it can be really uncomfortable to learn that you don't know as much as you think you do about the world. Oh, the arrogance of certainty, and in my case, youth. 

In my first year, I spent more time watching "Days of Our Lives" than studying, and wound up on academic probation. I left Smith in the middle of my sophomore year, when I was coming out of the closet and suffering from depression, took some time off, spent two semesters at Vassar, and, finally, returned to Smith, where, 18 months later, I graduated in the top 10% of my class.

Along the way, though, something happened: my eyes and mind were opened to the wider world. I began to care about the lives of people whose backgrounds and narratives were different from mine, sometimes markedly so. I began to care about the places those women were from. I became a global citizen, and I haven't looked back.

Since this alumna's letter was published, I've never been prouder to call myself a Smithie. Hundreds of us have posted our stories on the campus paper's website and on Tumblr feeds and Facebook pages. In mine, I noted that I'm still preppy (and I do still love my cashmere and pearls), but that my experience at Smith was not one where I learned to think more narrowly about life. What all of these gloriously different stories reveal - and what I think the gravestones today said, too, albeit more quietly - is that each one of us has something important to say. Smith, in my case, helped me learn how to say it, and to say it with conviction and without apology. 

Here I am, far right, in matchy-matchy white, yellow, and orange. But one look at my fellow Smiffenpoof (a cappella group) alums and dear friends below will tell you that while we may look like an unlikely tribe, we Smithies are a tribe nonetheless, and one in which I take tremendous pride.



Namaste,
Kelley

Thursday, February 9, 2012

A Deeper Shade of Pink

...with apologies to Ray Barretto...

I don't need to re-hash everything that happened last week with the fallout from the Susan G. Komen Foundation's decision to withdraw its funding to Planned Parenthood, followed several days later by an all-too-obvious about-face. Suffice to say I'm not sorry that Komen has been exposed for its hypocrisy. 

Pink ribbons, yellow bracelets: what do they mean? In the beginning, they may have connoted survivorship, awareness, or empathy, but all too quickly they became hollow marketing gimmicks, and at least in the case of Komen, frequently linked to corporations that, in the words of Ricky Ricardo, "have some 'splaining to do" about how they can purport to promote cancer "awareness" while simultaneously selling toxic products. (Breast Cancer Action is the organization to support, folks. They call out the bullshit.)

Aside from all of that, I have a couple of major gripes with both Komen and LiveStrong:

The first is why, as a culture, we're so quick to support so-called cancer "awareness" for those cancers related to sexuality (at least, if you're heterosexual). I'm thinking here of the noxious "save the ta-tas" stickers and shirts (oh, and by the way, they're not only gross, but THEIR FONT IS HIDEOUS, and, since this is a fashion/design blog, let me also say that both Komen and the "save the ta-tas" folks really favor an INSIPID shade of pink). 

This "sexualization" of cancer is not only reductive for those women and men who are coping with breast and testicular cancers, but it demeans the very real sexual side effects that many of us have dealt with as part of our diseases and/or treatments, myself included. You don't have to have breast cancer, testicular or prostate cancer, or undergo a prostatectomy to become infertile or to experience a long-term loss of sexual desire. Other cancers can also wreak havoc on this part of your life. (To all of those husbands and wives and partners out there who have continued to love us and have been patient with us as we have, or haven't, gotten our groove back, thank you. We are blessed to be sexually and emotionally intimate with you.)

The second major gripe is that since these cancers get so much attention, perhaps because they're tied up very obviously in our collective consciousness with sex and virility, other cancers get comparatively little press, and, more crucially, research funding. 

Here's the thing, though: no cancer is sexy, and cancer doesn't play fair. If it did, I wouldn't have a glioma. No one "deserves" cancer: not me, not the two-pack-a-day guy, not my family members and friends and friends' friends who have had other cancers. (Take a look at Tara Parker-Pope's 2008 column on this topic. Note, too, that lung cancer is the biggest cancer killer. Is it underfunded because we associate it with smoking, an increasingly stigmatized behavior, or because it's not tangentially associated with getting it on?) 

But since our culture seems to be wedded to empty gestures and bumper-sticker politics, I'd like to request an "awareness" ribbon for gliomas. It will be an orange, pink, black and white Pucci print, and it will look like this:


Namaste,
Kelley

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

An auspicious start to the year

Somehow another month passed without a blog update. No matter - this allows me to do a quick summary of my first month of preppy thrifting in 2012. 

I was fortunate to make a trip to the Westport, CT Goodwill store during the second weekend in January. Like everything else in Fairfield County, it has a reputation for being expensive, with prices often more in the "consignment store" range.

One would definitely not shop there if one were really on a tight budget - frankly, you could probably find less expensive new clothes at TJ Maxx, Marshall's, or the big box stores. Despite the prices, however, Westport Goodwill also has a reputation for having excellent secondhand clothes, and frequently high-end ones at that (e.g., Prada, D&G). This was my first visit in three years, and it did not disappoint.

In these lightweight plaid Theory pants, I'll be ready for my cruise (it will be my first, with my parents, at the end of March). I'll also be ready for trips to Weekapaug and other preppy enclaves.* 

I plan to pair these with a coral Lacoste polo shirt (not shown) that I found at Savers later in January.

"Yes, please, I'd love another gin and tonic."

I'll also be packing this canvas J. Crew skirt, which by the look of it and the still-sewn back pockets, has never been worn:


Dreaming about warmer weather is every New Englander's birthright in the winter, even if one could hardly characterize the temperatures in Rhode Island in January as chilly (it was in the upper 50s both yesterday and today). Still, I'm traditional enough that I wouldn't consider wearing the above items now.  

So I wasn't about to walk away from this Goodwill trip without finding a couple of things to tide me over until spring. This lambswool Horny Toad sweater was new with tags and (despite the bad color of the photo) is a nice sort of heathered olive and has a contrasting pale pink along the foldover collar:



This skirt was the clear standout of the trip, however. It's in a very fine-wale corduroy, and has hot pink grosgrain detail at the top of both patch pockets and down the center.

(I admit to a soft spot for grosgrain detail, just like I love rickrack, too. I only wish that I didn't now associate rickrack more with certain girls with bangs. I love vintage clothing, but there's something a little too precious and studied about the "quirky winsome girl" aesthetic.) Anyway, the skirt:


Skirt by Anne Carson (somehow I think it's not this Anne Carson)


And here I am, badly backlit, pairing the sweater with the skirt:


What else? I turned 41 in January, and received these lovely flowers:


and this spectacular phalaenopsis orchid:


and a few wonderful books, including the glorious Indian Textiles coffee table book. I have a lot to learn, and more trips to India are clearly warranted... 

as soon as I finish that gin and tonic.


Namaste and dress well,
Kelley

*A longish footnote: on the preppy book front, I highly recommend Tad Friend's exuberant, gorgeously written Cheerful Money: Me, My Family and the Decline of Wasp Splendor. Friend is a staff writer at The New Yorker and writes brilliantly and (surprisingly) movingly about downward mobility. (Tad, if members of your extended family ever need assistance in maintaining a preppy wardrobe on a budget, I'm your girl.)

Finally, all this talk about preppies reminds me of my favorite Metropolitan Diary entry, when someone recounted a story of being on a shuttle from Manhattan to the Hamptons:

Woman passenger: Driver, there's a wasp in this van!
Male passenger: Actually, there are three of us, but we're perfectly harmless.